Greetings from the cloud forest of the Tilaran mountains.
Here in the Monteverdian region of Costa Rica, the cloud forest straddles the Intercontinental Divide 6,000 feet above the Pacific Ocean. During rare gaps in the cloud cover the Pacific can be seen some 50 kilometers to the west. The mist seems perpetual and in league with the forest. Vision is good for only a few meters where ferns, banana leaves, vines and uncountable trees silently say “go no farther.” What penetrates this barrier is the sound of birds. Some of the birds are familiars of North America, migrating seasonally, but many are exclusive to this region. Emerald Toucanets, Violet Sabrewings, Keel-billed Toucans, Masked Tityras and Blue Crowned Motmots announce their presence with calls and songs. Those songs provide a direction to look for them in the dense forest growth. Their names are as colorful as their plumage. Perhaps the Holy Grail of tropical birds is the solitary Resplendent Quetzal, revered by the Aztecs and Mayans as a symbol of goodness and light. Because the Quetzals are so solitary, many birders visiting here never see one, so we are very fortunate to see four on our first day. We are grateful they came to greet us.
Eco-tourism is the single largest sector of the Costa Rican economy. And protecting the environment and incredible biodiversity is a top value in the consciousness of the Costa Ricans we meet. For example our hotel has a mission statement that includes the words “We are committed and proactive in environmental conservation, social/cultural contribution, and subscribe to the efficient and responsible use of our resources.” The preservation of the cloud forest began in the 1970s with a group of Quakers who arrived in the early 1950s; their values are visibly present everywhere and the tradition endures.
This area is not particularly easy to get to. Four-wheel drive is a requirement if you drive yourself. The roads are rutted gravel, rocky and very steep. They are so steep and narrow that the Mt. Baker highway would be considered flatland superhighway in comparison. Our birding guide for the last two days has been Juan Carlos. His dedication and knowledge of birds and the natural environment has entertained and enlightened us. He started his independent nature guide business three years ago. And as the eco-tourism industry in Costa Rica has declined by 30% in the last year largely due to the recession, he, like others, has experienced the stress of his business level dropping. Yet he projects an enthusiasm and attitude of good cheer and gratitude that seems infectious in this small country. I like to think that we in the States have the same inherent optimism and confidence in our own abilities and our own outlook about the future.
Sometimes the disasters and hard times that beset us seem to be like the impenetrable cloud forest. We seem shrouded in a fog that saps our vision. But even then, if we listen carefully, we are called to beauty. The beauty of our own spirit and the spirit of others is our Resplendent Quetzal, apparently far away, but in reality close by.
